How To Change Turbo Flange Gasket On 86 Daytona 2.2 Turbo

Replacing The Head Gasket

[ Improved Designs | Thermostat Modification | Emergency Repair | Consummate Repair ]
[ Caput Bolt Tightening Sequence | A/C Bracket Commodities Sequence ]

Symptoms

Engine suddenly overheats, radiator hose or heater hose explodes, a bubbling sound from the radiator overflow tank (may be a bad radiator cap), large bubbling in or foaming of coolant in radiator while engine is running, loss of coolant with no credible leak, or persistent white fume coming from frazzle.

Causes

The engine overheated causing the head to warp. The overheat may have been caused by any of the following. See the Mini-Mopar Troubleshooter to notice out more than.

Failure of the radiator fan or radiator fan relay.
Thermostat did non open.
Low radiator fluid, fluid leak, and/or h2o pump failure.
Headgasket blew for other reason, causing loss of fluid and overheat.

The engine overboosted. Run across the mistake lawmaking 36.
Known head gasket trouble or improper headgasket installation.

Description

1 of the weak links in these engines is the tendency for the 2.2L and 2.5L engines to blow the head gasket. The event that finally blows the gasket can vary, simply the flaw in the original gasket design is what makes the gasket a weak indicate. Here are the details of the problem:

The surface expanse of the head and cake almost the corners is less than other areas. This is considering there are more water jackets and oil passages in these areas, especially past cylinders #1 and #4. In that location is less surface surface area at the corners, so the gasket gets crushed because of too much pressure, which causes part of the gasket to "squirt" inside the cylinder, especially the dorsum corner of #one. Too see this for yourself, take a pair of calipers or a micrometer, and measure the thickness of your used gasket at various places. Here is a motion picture of a gasket that I pulled out of my engine. It had non blown still, but it was real close. The arrows point to where the gasket was crushed into the cylinder (lamentable nigh the quality of the pic, I volition get a meliorate 1 before long):

The head commodities tightening sequence, according to Chrysler, has each bolt tightened to nigh 95 foot-pounds. Pressure equals Force divided by Area. The smaller the surface area (of the block and caput) the larger the force per unit area (on the gasket) for the same amount of force (provided past the head bolt). With the gasket exposed inside the combustion chamber, the combustion "fire" burns the gasket away. One time the metal ring has been burned through, the fibrous role of the gasket chop-chop gives way and the gasket blows, usually into the corner water jacket by cylinder #i or in betwixt cylinders. In add-on, the h2o pump is located shut to cylinder #1. When the thermostat opens, colder coolant contacts the head on that side, which causes the head contract quicker than the block (since the head is aluminum and the block is steel). That is why the water passage by #ane is blocked by the gasket: to slow this upshot. This expansion and contraction stresses the seal provided past the head gasket.

Improved Head Gasket Designs

Chrysler has superseded this old gasket pattern with a new, harder gasket that can withstand the increased pressure at the corners. Though new and untested by myself, this gasket is very like to the original Fel-Pro gasket which had been used successfully by many. My measurements showed that the Fel-Pro gasket was slightly over-crushed at the corners, but did not deform or "squirt" into the cylinders. Unfortunately, The Fel-Pro gaskets were changed some time in the late 90s and now suffer from the same problems equally the original. The new Mopar gaskets are fabricated of a solid fabric instead of the gristly material of the older mode gasket. Victor-Reinz even so makes the older gasket and I recommend avoiding it. As such, I can only recommend getting Mopar or Mopar Performance gasket. Fel-Pro does sell a 0.20" copper shim that can be used to drop your compression or to compensate for a milled head:

9296 SP - 0.020" head shim for non-cantankerous-drilled head and block

The Mopar Operation headgasket is an fifty-fifty tougher blueprint than the original Fel-Pro. Although it is designed for high operation use, it can be used on any stock engine. I also recommend going with the Mopar Functioning head bolts when using this gasket. They are actually cheaper than the stock Mopar bolts. Avert all aftermarket bolts. Here are the part numbers:

P4452005 - non-cross-drilled head and cake
P4452006 - cantankerous-drilled head and block
P4452007 - non-quadrilled with o-rings
P4452008 - cross-drilled with o-rings

Yous can identify a cross-drilled cake past looking at the holes between the cylinders. The gasket pictured in the section to a higher place shows a not-cantankerous-drilled gasket. Yous can see a full of six modest holes between each cylinder on each side. These match upwards to h2o jackets on the caput and block. A cross-drilled head and block will have additional, smaller holes next to these holes that are even closer to the cylinder walls. There may just exist 3 boosted holes side by side to the back three water jackets, or at that place may be six additional holes next to all of the water jackets. From 1980 through 1988, the just cross-drilled engines were the 1987 and 1988 Turbo Ii engines (in both directions, yielding six holes). Starting in 1989, all blocks and heads were cross-drilled, but at some point they just cross-drilled in one direction (three holes).

For more data on these head gasket options, meet the caput gasket department of the Upgrading The Engine's Acme End page. No factory engine came with o-ringed blocks.

Thermostat Modification

An boosted improvement tin can be made to the system by drilling a small (1/viii" or smaller) hole in the thermostat plate (the area around the valve seat). When installing the modified thermostat, rotate it so that this hole is every bit high as possible. This does two things. Firstly, the thermostat tin can never completely end the flow of coolant, which reduces the thermal stupor to the head that occurs when the thermostat opens (see above). Secondly, if air and gasses do rise in the head and collect backside the thermostat, they can escape into the radiator (and out the overflow tank) through this pigsty even if the thermostat doesn't open up.

Emergency Repair

If you have a blown head gasket merely need to become dwelling before you lot can work on it or are otherwise stranded, so you can implement the following prepare that should get you domicile depending on how severe the gasket has blown. A blown head gasket puts air into the coolant system which builds up behind the thermostat in the water box. In the absenteeism of fluid, the thermostat closes blocking the passage and causing the head and block to fill up with air which pushes the radiator fluid into the overflow tank. The engine then quickly overheats. All you need is an adjustable wrench, a knife of sorts or a flat-head screwdriver, nigh a gallon (or more) of h2o, and a thick rag. Except for the water, these are things you should always go along in your car.

Shut the engine off. Clasp the radiator hose to check for force per unit area. If the hose feels like it is under pressure than you lot may desire to expect for the engine to absurd a scrap.
If don't want to or can't wait and are dauntless enough, then take the large rag, fold information technology once or twice and lay it over the radiator cap. If the system is under pressure, radiator fluid will spray out from the radiator cap. Make sure the rag will protect you or you will go severely burned. Stand back, push down hard on the cap, and turn it slowly counter clock wise until yous feel it unlatch. Slowly release some force per unit area on the cap and allow any fluid to drain on the ground.
After it has stopped gushing, printing down on the cap once more and plow it counter clockwise until it stops. Carefully release force per unit area on the cap once again and remove information technology when fluid is no longer coming out. Do not put your face up or hand or anything virtually the spout because the steam can crusade burns.
Using the wrench, remove the nut property the dipstick and so remove the remaining stud and bolt from the thermostat/upper radiator hose housing.
Take hold of the housing and hose with the rag and pull it off. Try to pull it off slowly, if you can, to save the gasket. Pulling the housing off function mode and scraping with a shape pocketknife may save it. Again, beware of any fluid that may come out. It will be very hot. Remove the thermostat within of it hasn't fallen out already.
If the water box gasket tore (which it usually does), scrape off the sometime gasket with the screwdriver. Be conscientious not to burn yourself. If information technology looks OK, leave it alone.
Replace the housing and bolt information technology back in (without the thermostat).
Make full the radiator as much as y'all can with the h2o and replace the cap.
Showtime the engine and watch the temperature guess carefully. If it seems to exist property, drive on but take it like shooting fish in a barrel. A blown gasket will slowly consume the coolant. If the car starts to overheat again, it may be also due to fluid loss from the damaged or missing the water box gasket. Proceed a jug of h2o with yous and fill it when you tin can and so y'all can terminate and fill the radiator. If the leak at the h2o box is bad, you can cut a make-shift gasket out of compressed cardboard, paper, or anything you can find.

Consummate Repair

Here is the procedure for complete head gasket installation for most 2.2L/2.5L engines. Some variations in the intake setup, turbo, etc. volition exist nowadays on diverse models and years.

Head gasket removal

Disconnect the negative battery last.
Remove the air box and intake hoses. Unbolt the clamps holding the turbo water return and oil feed lines.
Loosen the three bolts on the air-conditioning compressor belt idler caster bracket (below the compressor) to loosen the belt. You may have to remove the upper of the two outside bolts to remove the chugalug. Disconnect the compressor clutch harness. Remove the two bolts and 2 nuts that mount the air-conditioning compressor likewise as the clamp on the air conditioning hoses near the drier and lay the entire compressor over the correct fender on a blanket or pad.
Loosen the alternator/h2o pump chugalug by loosening the tensioning bolt in front of the alternator (betwixt the alternator and the radiator). Remove the alternator belt, lower pivot bolt and tensioner bolt. Remove the alternator and lay it down on the lower radiator hose (you can go out the harness connected). Remove the A/C compressor bracket using the contrary of the bolt installation sequence.
Utilise a store vac or other powerful vacuum cleaner and vacuum out the area where the fuel injectors become into the intake manifold. You don't desire whatsoever dirt or debris falling into the manifold when you remove the fuel rail. Unbolt the fuel rails and carefully pull the rail with the injectors out of the intake manifold. Disconnect whatever hoses are wires you need to get it out of the manner. Unbolt the ground strap leading from the intake manifold or engine block to the fire wall.
Remove the commodities and two nuts for the timing belt shroud and pull the shroud off. Unbolt and remove the valve comprehend.
Remove the camshaft caster bolt. Remove the caster by sliding information technology off the shaft, but exist conscientious not to loose tension on the timing belt or yous will accept to re-time the engine. Wrap the timing chugalug beneath the pulley tightly with a piece of wire or a large tie wrap and position the belt such that at that place is ever tension on it. Use a bungee cord to tie it to something above if necessary.
Bleed the radiator and remove the upper radiator hose. If you lot intend to supersede the thermostat (never a bad thought), remove the nut the holds the dipstick and then remove that stud and the other commodities belongings the thermostat cover/radiator hose connectedness on the water box.
Disconnect the turbo coolant return line from under the water box and the oil feed line below the h2o box. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor cable and unbolt the basis wire on the corner of the head.
Disconnect the turbo support bracket which runs from the lesser of the turbo to the engine block. If y'all are going to completely pull the head, the disconnect the coolant feed line to the turbo and the oil return line, which also runs from the turbo to the engine block.
Observe the caput bolt tightening sequence and loosen the caput bolts in the contrary order shown there. Remove the head bolts and pry the head upward with a large screwdriver. There are some bosses along the front of the head that are there to help pry the head up. Don't scratch the surface of the caput or the cake where the gasket is.
Now you have a choice on how to raise the head. You tin get out it like this and apply a winch to pull the head up. The exhaust organisation has plenty flexibility and so that you can get the caput upward about 6 inches. This is plenty to remove the gasket and clean the surfaces, but not hands. You may be able to go it upwardly college by removing some of the exhaust system'due south hangers. Yous tin can get the head up nigh 12-16 inches by disconnecting the wastegate push rod and removing iii of the 4 bolts around the exterior of the exhaust side of the turbo and loosen the forth. The head will and then pivot on the remaining bolt. Don't pivot information technology too loftier or you lot may damage the turbine inside. Remove the bolts slowly. They tend to corrode, but if you spray them with "Liquid Wrench" and screw them slowly in and out, they will usually come out. The other option is to remove the exhaust downpipe nuts and pull the head completely. Either way, if you're working lone, it helps to remove the hood and use a winch from in a higher place to pull the head up or out. Remove and audit the gasket. Look for burnt or missing gasket effectually cylinder #1 (the cylinder next to the timing belt). This is the about likely identify for the gasket to blow. Some other identify the gasket may blow is by cylinder #four or between two of the cylinders.

Check for flatness

Place a quality straight-edge beyond the bottom surface of the head across its longest side. A skilful, steel ruler or framing square works well.
Try to slide a 0.1mm (0.004in) feeler gauge between the straight edge and the head. If you tin can slide it through without lifting the straight border, and so the head is warped and will have to be milled.
Repeat the above steps along all of the outer edges and between the cylinders.
Repeat the above step on the block.

If your block or caput needs to exist machined, it will have to exist removed and taken to a quality machine shop. Look in your yellow pages. They are more common than you lot may wait. Be sure and find out how much material they removed, because you will need to buy a head shim that is the same thickness to maintain the proper pinch ratio. A warped head is not uncommon if your engine severely overheated. In the end it may exist cheaper to purchase a new or used head.

Surface Cleaning

Utilize a razor blade or a good, small scraper (a straight edged exacto-blade works great) to scrape off the remaining gasket material from the head and block. Information technology is very important that all materiel is removed. Try not to get the scrapings into the cylinders and as well exist careful not to gouge the surface (peculiarly the head). Yous tin assist this process by post-obit upwards with some 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sand the surface of the caput and cake. Remember that the caput is made of softer material (aluminum) than the cake (cast iron).
Once the surface is down to the metal and smooth, use mineral spirits or naphtha to clean all oils and residue from the metal. Use a make clean paper towel each fourth dimension and keep doing information technology until the towel no longer gets muddied from the surface. Go over it again with a fast evaporating solvent like acetone or denatured alcohol to remove residues from the previous solvent.
Scrape all of the RTV off of the valve cover and head (if any) and clean it in a similar mode. Scrape and make clean the h2o box and thermostat housing the aforementioned manner. Mineral spirits breaks downward RTV fairly well and some wet sanding volition ensure a good seal. Exist sure to use acetone or alcohol to remove the residue left by information technology.

What yous will demand

New head gasket - make certain the package that the head gasket comes in is sealed. New gaskets are only adept for a certain corporeality of time before the coating on the outside dries upward. This coating allows the gasket to seat properly. To see your headgasket choices, meet the information in the Improved Headgasket Designs department.
A head shim - only if yous had your caput or block machined to remove warpage. Be sure to become the same thickness as was removed by the shop. If you tin can't become the exact thickness, slightly thicker is better than slightly thinner on a turbo engine. Vise-versa for an North/A engine. Fel-Pro sells a 0.020" head shim called the Engine$aver (part# 9296 SP). Dana-Victor also makes a head shim (function# 36885). The caput shim goes between the block and the gasket and y'all should use a shellac-blazon gasket sealer with a head shim on the block side.
New head bolts - if yous've re-used the head bolts twice, you volition demand a new set because they tin can only be stretched 3 times. Using them again will not provide enough force on the head. You lot will know when this happens if you lot practise not attain 95 ft-lbs of torque during the last caput tightening sequence.
New valve cover gasket. Note that the 1988 and up valve covers use a ane-piece safety gasket while the earlier covers use two prophylactic pieces at the ends and RTV in betwixt.
A tube of "Ultra Blackness" or "Red" RTV. Be sure it is "sensor safe".
Annihilation else you may accept broken or lost forth the style (bolts, etc.)

Other things you lot may desire to get

New thermostat - never a bad idea since you have information technology apart and it's cheap (see the Thermostat Modification department).
New thermostat housing gasket - does not come with the thermostat.
New belts - if they look worn or croaky or just every bit maintenance. These include the timing chugalug, power steering pump belt, alternator/h2o pump belt, and the ac compressor chugalug.
New turbo coolant return hose - a short piece of 1/2" heater hose and two hose clamps.
New radiator hoses - if they are very old or await croaky, stretched, or are damaged (await closely at the lower hose well-nigh the radiator fan), it is cheap insurance. Don't forget hose clamps.

Head gasket replacement

Utilize a store vac or other powerful vacuum cleaner and vacuum out any droppings that may take fallen into the cylinders.
Position the head to be remounted if you lot removed it and wipe the surfaces of the block and caput with a fast evaporating solvent one terminal time.
With a make clean pair of hands, remove the gasket from the packaging, holding it from the edges only. Place information technology on the block. The dowel pins will aid you line it up.
Carefully mount the head back on the block, using the dowel pins to line information technology up. If you left the head mounted to the exhaust, it may not want to become down. This is because of the downpipe plumbing equipment on the turbo. Just push the head down making sure information technology stays lined up. You may take to pull it forward a chip.
Screw in the x head bolts until the caput is downwards. Do not start torquing them down. Make certain the timing belt does not go caught between the head and cake.
Follow the head bolt tightening sequence. Be sure you use the correct one for your engine.
Wipe the mounting surface of the valve cover and head one concluding time and and then clean your hands thoroughly. The best way to seal the valve cover when RTV is needed is to smear RTV all over the mounting surfaces to brand sure the RTV is sticking and that information technology fills the pocket-sized crevices in the metal surfaces completely. Try not to take too long doing this or the RTV may start to cure. Await on the tube of RTV for the tack-gratis time. Note that if you have the one-slice rubber gasket, no RTV is needed.
If you have the 2-piece prophylactic and cork gasket, add together a small bead on height of the RTV on the caput. Add together a bead in the channel that goes over the camshaft (where the rubber gasket goes) and fill the other parts of the channel completely plus a scrap more.
If you lot have a i slice gasket, press the gasket into the channel on the valve embrace. If you lot have the 2 piece gasket, press the prophylactic portion into the channels on the encompass that go over the camshaft. If you have a turbocharged engine with the cast valve cover, discard the cork portions of the gasket. For the stamped-steel valve covers, place the cork strips along the caput in the appropriate orientation
Mount the valve embrace and bolt information technology down. Be conscientious when torquing down the valve cover bolts. It doesn't take much to snap them off, especially after torquing the caput bolts. So, I recommend using a ane/4" ratchet rather than the 100 foot-pound torque wrench. :)
Wipe the mounting surfaces on the water box and the thermostat housing. Identify the (new) thermostat in the housing, place the gasket, and commodities it down. Reposition the dipstick and tighten the nut. Reattach the upper radiator hose.
Supplant the turbo coolant return hose, if you purchased a new one. Reconnect the coolant line to the water box and the turbo oil feed line. Reconnect the water temperature sensor cable and bolt the basis wire back on the corner of the head.
Reattach the turbo support bracket, the coolant supply line, and the oil return line under the turbo (if y'all removed them).
If you purchased a new timing belt, bolt the camshaft caster back on and replace the belt. You will need to support the engine while you remove the correct-side engine mount and the lower timing chugalug shroud to get the chugalug off. Upon replacement, you lot volition have to observe the timing marks. If you are careful, yous can remove and replace the belt without moving whatsoever of the pulleys. The distributor pulley has the greatest tendency to move, so locking it downwards with a clamp or wire earlier removing the belt may be helpful. Always re-cheque the timing anyway. If you are not replacing the belt, remount the pulley and belt at present. Keep tension on the belt at all times or it will spring a tooth. Slide the pulley back over the shaft advisedly and commodities the pulley downwards. If the fundamental does non line upwards, rotate the camshaft, not the caster. Attach the upper shroud and bolt it down. Run into the Engine Timing And Belt Replacement page for more information about the timing belt.
Remount and reconnect the fuel rail and the basis strap backside the engine.
Bolt the air-conditioning compressor bracket dorsum on using the bracket commodities installation sequence. Mount and commodities the air workout compressor and alternator back onto the subclass.
If you bought a new set of belts, y'all will demand to remove the ability steering belt now. Loosen the pump's two mounting bolts (sometimes it is easier to get these from underneath) and remove the belt.
Put the belt on and tighten it by prying the pump away from the engine using a narrow slice of woods or a bar and tighten the bolts. A second person really helps here. If you own a chugalug tension gauge, this is a great place to use it. Otherwise, printing on the belt between the pulleys. You should get no more than 1 inch of deflection when pressed firmly. Not enough tension will crusade the belt to bleat. Too much tension can ruin the pump's bearings. See the Drive Belt Replacement page for belt tensioning specifications and other information.
Put the (new) alternator/water pump chugalug on. Tighten it using the belt tensioning bolt you loosened information technology with.
Put the (new) air conditioning compressor chugalug dorsum on. To tighten this belt, you will need ii ratchets with 15mm sockets or a ratchet and a 15mm box wrench. Tighten the belt by putting either the wrench or ratchet on the nut that is welded onto the idler pulley bracket and torquing information technology counter-clockwise. Tighten any one of the iii bolts to agree it. This tin can exist catchy to figure out the correct combination of sockets and extensions and then that you can agree the tension and tighten the bolt at the aforementioned time. Don't give up, it is possible (and not that hard one time you effigy it out). Be peculiarly careful not to put too much tension on the belt. Y'all take a lot of leverage with that caster and it is easy to over tighten it. A over tightened belt will tear up the clutch bearing, which will and so overheat, fall apart, and melt the clutch curlicue and/or destroy the clutch. Once you accept it in place, tighten all 3 bolts downwardly.
Bolt the clamps holding the turbo h2o return and oil feed lines back on. Mount and connect all the intake brackets, hoses, etc. that you took off before. If you lot accept a postal service-1987 Turbo I that has the blow-through intake setup, don't worry nigh the rear air box bracket bolt if y'all can't get it in there.
Remove the plug on top of the h2o box using a big allen wrench. Fill the radiator back up until you see information technology in the water box. This removes whatever trapped air in the head. Put the plug back in (employ some Teflon tape, if you have some) and height off the radiator.
Allow the RTV to cure for at to the lowest degree 24-48 hours earlier starting the engine and make certain you pinnacle off the fluids before yous bulldoze off.

Head Bolt Tightening Sequence

Tighten the cylinder head bolts using the appropriate sequence shown below:

1985 and Earlier Engines (10mm head bolts)

Get-go pass - All bolts to 35 ft-lbs (48 Due north-yard)
Second laissez passer - All bolts to 45 ft-lbs (61 North-grand)
Third pass - All bolts once more to 45 ft-lbs (61 N-m)
Along pass - All bolts one/iv turn (90 degrees)

1986 and Later Engines (11mm head bolts)

Offset pass - All bolts to 45 ft-lbs (61 N-m)
2nd laissez passer - All bolts to 65 ft-lbs (88 Northward-m)
Third pass - All bolts once again to 65 ft-lbs (88 N-one thousand)
Along laissez passer - All bolts 1/four plow (90 degrees)

(click here for a larger image)

A/C Subclass Commodities Installation Sequence

Install the A/C bracket bolts in the sequence shown in the diagram so they are mitt tight, and so tighten them in this sequence:

First pass - Bolt #1 to 22 ft-lbs (30 Due north-m)
Second laissez passer - Bolts #2 and #three to 40 ft-lbs (54 N-one thousand)
Third pass - Bolts #1, #4, and #5 to 40 ft-lbs (54 Due north-m)
Forth pass - Bolts #6 and #7 to forty ft-lbs (54 Due north-k)

(click here for a printable image)

Updated 04/21/2004.

Source: http://www.minimopar.net/headgasket.html

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