How Do You Change The Bearings On A Delta 14 Bandsow

Thanks Alan. Thats not my particular bandsaw simply it is delta and shows the two spring config. I find it foreign that in a machine fabricated in the U.s.a. mine is the X5 Delta 14" 28-475X that they use two and did not show them on the drawing. They simply show 1. Now at least i know how they put them. Funny affair is on another forum i found the guys think they should go back to dorsum. One side springs pushing on the casting edge and the other side pushing on the begetting outer ring.

Another interesting thing is the addition of the washer before the nut. I would have also thought in this case at that place should be two basics.

Here is my understanding so far of this whole issue.

The way the lower cycle is mounted is different from the upper wheel.

On the lower wheel the cycle is secured to the shaft with the begetting set to exist secured between the shoulder on the shaft and the roller bearing. There is as well a cardinal to stop the wheel rotating and get in drive the shaft.
The bearing is a slide fit to the casting.

Now if one were to put the motor side begetting in which is a slide fit over both the shaft and the casting recess and tighten up then a few things happen. If two much tightening is done the wheel will not even movement given the strength is being applied to the bearings.

If ane backed off yous still have a problem in that when the bearing heats upwards the whole thing would seize for the same reason.

So to prevent this the shaft is machined such that when the whole assembly is put together there is a gap between the casting and the motor side bearing.

Well nosotros dont desire the wheel rocking from side to side when information technology starts up or this volition transfer to the bract and who knows where the blade volition stop up running.

So these finger springs are inserted and act as a tensioner to put load on 1 side of the bearing and readapt the shaft to the one side thereby allowing the shaft to stay in one place and cater for the movement that is going to occur when the bearings heat up and expand.

Of grade these are pocket-size amounts we are talking nigh but they are meaning in the whole assembly working smoothly.

I judge placed one on top of the other these springs must work the same equally if i shoved two coil springs into a butt. Yous gotta accept more tension to shrink two than one.

The thing to call up is this bandsaw has a larger than nearly motor so I guess the need for greater jump tension is neccessary but and so why did it non make it to the manual. ????

The other matter is a washer on the bearing side would make more sense to me than the nut on its own.

I guess my concern is whether the motorcar was assembled properly. This is not part of the assembly the owner does when they go it in a box. Its manufacturing plant done.

The gap if one leaves them out for a moment and rocks the assembly sideways is pregnant.

Given what i found in the upper bicycle, my confidence that this motorcar was e'er put together properly is completely gone. And so much for the premium i paid to support "Fabricated in the USA".

I have had a conventionalities since day one that all was not correct with this automobile. Bit by chip at different times afterwards reading others experiences i accept establish out more and more and learnt more and more about setting them upwardly.

With a little tenacity and determination, like a Stanley plane, i think they can be turned into bully bandsaws.

When i bought it i was totally ignorant non a member of a forum and relied on the "Taunton Tool guide" and "Made in USA" equally a means for determining quality. Well i am a piffling wiser today.

I also bought into the concept of a fully enclosed metallic base. Aye right. The chapeau or top of this base is plate. Secured to the base of operations by screws. Were it 1/four inch thick i would say bang-up. Merely it aint.

Another guy i establish on the spider web put in a 3/4 slice of particle board to stiffen information technology upwardly. He said it made a globe of departure. I plan on doing the exact same. I have intuitively idea this from the very kickoff. But figured "dang Rob you aint a mechanical engineer" surely "the Delta guys knew what they were doing" yeah right. The value engineering science guys may have.

I still have an upshot of how tight to make the nut? Dont you guys think there should be two nuts?

On my vintage roll saw they have two basics in a similar config except the bearings used there are Timken tappered bearings and then they need to be held in place just without being tightened upwardly as well much. In this case at that place is no pre load spring.

Its really well worth getting familiar with your machines in this way.

Anyone have any idea on a practicle method of determining how tight to make the tension nut.?

My thinking right now is to place it all in and only hand tighten it to take upwards the slack then at that place is no side to side play. Leaving the springs virtually uncompressed. This will alow for them to shrink when the whole assembly heats up. :dunno: